Tuesday, 7 July 2015

Army-style Patrones jacket - Patrones Issue 34, No. 55

Can I just say that I'm a little bit excited about this jacket?!

This has been such a long time in the planning and finally it is here. I first saw the pattern in Patrones magazine, Issue 34, a year or two ago and spent ages trying to find the right fabric. I ended up finding this ripstop cotton on the other side of the world and it was just what I wanted. You may have seen my recent post where I made a wearable muslin of this pattern in bleach splattered fabric. I made a couple of mistakes on that one due to having only Spanish instructions, but I love it and have worn it many times. I wrote detailed notes for myself on where I went wrong and what I learnt the first time and, I'm happy to say, this jacket went almost without a hitch.

Patrones Issue 34, No. 55
Patrones Issue 34, I can't find a date for this magazine.
The pockets and detailing really make this jacket and I was careful to take my time and get it as true to the picture as I could. I assembled the pockets, and the tab that joins them, separately and sewed the whole structure on to the partly assembled jacket so the placement would be right. The lower pocket flap has a double welt opening for the tab to pass through. The lower button is sewn to the tab, but not the pocket so I can still easily slip my hands inside for warmth or stray chocolates if I'm lucky.

The tabs were sewn to the jacket at the waist for the belt to pass through, front and back.


I chose to keep the jacket unlined as designed. To keep the inside neat, I constructed the entire jacket with French seams, apart from the side seams which were neatened with the overlocker. I made some bias binding to finish the edge of the facings. I'm wearing my ponte pants and 'Mannish' gathered blouse in case you were wondering!

I decided to leave the hood off this jacket. I had lots of trouble with it on my first version (to the point of accidentally ripping it in half as I unpicked it for the umpteenth time), so saved some stress and omitted it this time.

The only other changes I made were to leave the buckle off the belt (I couldn't find one the right size) and to lengthen the sleeves a bit.

I haven't got quite the worn-in look of the magazine picture, but that may come with time.

I used metal buttons and snaps to finish it off and to coordinate with the metal zip.

I am thrilled with this jacket. It feels like a big achievement to have come to the end of such a long process. Many hours were spent plotting and planning, deciphering the pattern, scrutinising the pattern photo, jotting notes and, of course, carefully sewing. The fabric is perfect and the 3% lycra provides just enough stretch to make this really comfortable.

I love it when a plan comes together!


Beverly said...

What a fantastic jacket! I can see that you put a lot of time into it & it turned out great.

sewingkm said...

Fabulous and worth all your time and efforts!

jacquianne said...

Wow I loved the first one but this one tops it - I think my fav of all your wonderful makes yet.

Marie said...

That jacket is awesome. Amazing work there.

Andrea F said...

Wow. You must be over the moon with this jacket. All your hours of work on it sure paid off, it looks fantastic!

Frau Nähfreundins Tagebuch said...

Very nice!!!! Great job.
I like your blog.

Robyn said...

This is such a fantastic jacket - you've done an amazing job, love all the little details.

Sew, Jean Margaret said...

Awesome jacket! So many interesting details all executed with excellent skill. I hope you get a buzz every time you wear this jacket, and I bet you get loads of compliments.

Funkbunny said...

Wow ! I'm in awe of your sewing skills. Great jacket :)

Rose said...

Lovely! You have created some great jackets! I adore the colorful piping on this version. Many thanks for including the cover of the Patrones issue.


Rose in SV

AllisonC said...

You can really see all the detailing on this version. Wow, this really is an impressive make, and all the more so for being from Spanish instructions.

mags said...

That is a genuinely awesome piece of sewing! A fantastic result.

fabric epiphanies said...

It is fantastic and I was wondering what was happening with it! You will be ready to make a few tee shirts now!

Elizabeth Made This said...

Excellent work on such a stylish jacket! I love the vertical tabs. They're just the kind of unique feature you see in Patrones and they really make this jacket special. I didn't know there was such a thing as ripstop cotton. It's got really lovely texture...you've sent me now on a scavenger hunt!

That's Sew Amy said...

This is great! I love it. I love the color of the fabric. I pinned it because I want to use it in the future. (sorry if this posted 2 times lol) Good job!

SavageCoco said...

WOW. Oh, and, WOW. Megs, that's some really spectacular workmanship. If you'd like the worn in look to happen faster you can always back the truck over it a few times. That'll loosen the fibers up rather quickly. But then you can run the risk of looking a bit Homeless Harry, which, you know, is kinda trampy. This jacket could never be trampy, tho, it's work of art.
Rock on,

Coco said...

This is such a good looking coat - you did a wonderful job on it.

Carolyn said...

WOW!!! I'm blown away by how gorgeous this is! I completely and utterly LOVE it! Perfect perfect military coat, and yes, you'll be thrilled with it forever. It's only going to get better and better with age. A totally fabulous creation! :)

Unknown said...

Your jacket is awesome. It's got all the detailing that makes this jacket exciting. You've done a top job Meg.
Excuse me for re-looking at your detailing #awesome

Marianna said...

Excellent work, my friend! This is the kind of garment I tend to buy as I'd find it tricky to pull off. Anything a bit industrial or utility shouldn't look like it's been anywhere near a delicate home-sewing machine. And yours doesn't. Very pro.

Gail said...

OMG that's cool. I love the strips cleverly incorporating the belt loops. Its so annoying that my newsagents don't stock Patrones anymore.

Dilliander said...

This really is ace Meg, great job!

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