Can I just say that I'm a little bit excited about this jacket?!
This has been such a long time in the planning and finally it is here. I first saw the pattern in Patrones magazine, Issue 34, a year or two ago and spent ages trying to find the right fabric. I ended up finding this ripstop cotton on the other side of the world and it was just what I wanted. You may have seen my recent post where I made a wearable muslin of this pattern in bleach splattered fabric. I made a couple of mistakes on that one due to having only Spanish instructions, but I love it and have worn it many times. I wrote detailed notes for myself on where I went wrong and what I learnt the first time and, I'm happy to say, this jacket went almost without a hitch.
|Patrones Issue 34, No. 55|
|Patrones Issue 34, I can't find a date for this magazine.|
The pockets and detailing really make this jacket and I was careful to take my time and get it as true to the picture as I could. I assembled the pockets, and the tab that joins them, separately and sewed the whole structure on to the partly assembled jacket so the placement would be right. The lower pocket flap has a double welt opening for the tab to pass through. The lower button is sewn to the tab, but not the pocket so I can still easily slip my hands inside for warmth or stray chocolates if I'm lucky.
The tabs were sewn to the jacket at the waist for the belt to pass through, front and back.
I chose to keep the jacket unlined as designed. To keep the inside neat, I constructed the entire jacket with French seams, apart from the side seams which were neatened with the overlocker. I made some bias binding to finish the edge of the facings. I'm wearing my ponte pants and 'Mannish' gathered blouse in case you were wondering!
I decided to leave the hood off this jacket. I had lots of trouble with it on my first version (to the point of accidentally ripping it in half as I unpicked it for the umpteenth time), so saved some stress and omitted it this time.
The only other changes I made were to leave the buckle off the belt (I couldn't find one the right size) and to lengthen the sleeves a bit.
I haven't got quite the worn-in look of the magazine picture, but that may come with time.
I used metal buttons and snaps to finish it off and to coordinate with the metal zip.
I am thrilled with this jacket. It feels like a big achievement to have come to the end of such a long process. Many hours were spent plotting and planning, deciphering the pattern, scrutinising the pattern photo, jotting notes and, of course, carefully sewing. The fabric is perfect and the 3% lycra provides just enough stretch to make this really comfortable.
I love it when a plan comes together!